Shoe with channeled welt



June 3, 1947. F. J. TOBACCO SHOE II'I'H CHKNRELED WELT Filed July 28, 1945 2 Sheets-Sheet l F. J. TOBACCO 7 2,421,442

SHOE IITH CHAHNELED IBLT Filed July as, 1945 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 III S J7 Q Patented-June 3, 1947 UNITED s'rA'r-Es PATENT OFFIGE- SHOE WITH CHANNELED WELT Frank J. Tobacco, Staten Island, N. Y. Application July 28, 1945, Serial N0. 607,559

2 Claims. (CI. 36-17) This invention relates to the manufactured articles of footwear, which will be referred to herein as shoes, although it is to be understood that that term is intended to include not only shoes but also similar types of footwear, such as slippers, pumps, etc. More particularly, the invention is concerned with a shoe of novel construction which can be manufactured rapidly and at low cost. The shoe of the invention is superior to prior similar shoes in that it is easier to make, because it does not requirepulling over operations, and it is stronger and of better wearing quality but without any sacrifice in appearance.

The, new shoe includes the usual upper, with or without a lining, a sock lining, and a welt, and these parts are secured together in preliminary operations by stitching the edges of the upper, the upper lining, if used, and the sock lining to the welt between the edges thereof. The welt is of elongated triangular'cross-section and the edges of the upper, etc., are secured to the welt against one of the convergent sides thereof and pointing toward the thin edge of the welt. After these operations are completed, the shoe is slipped over a last of proper size, and the upper, sock lining, and welt are thus secured together in such manner asto fit the last snugly without the usual pulling over. The shoe may include a shank and an insole, although, in some shoes, either the shank or the insole may be omitted. When both a shank and an insole are employed, the insole p is applied to the under surface of the sock lining and the shank applied to underlie the insole,

after which the thin edge of the welt is turned inwardly under the edges of the insole and shank to hold those parts in place against the sock lining. An outer sole is then prepared by skiving material from one face along its edge to form a .downwardly and outwardly sloping surface, and

the outer sole is applied to the under surfaces of the welt and the shank and to the under surface of the insole beyond the forward end of the shank with the sloping surface on the outer sole in contact with the lower convergent side of the welt. The welt and outer sole are then secured together by appropriate means, as, for example, by a layer of cement or by stitching passing through the exposed portion of the welt at its thick edge and through the outer sole adjacent its outer edge.

The welt employed is preferably formed with a lengthwise channel in one of its convergent sides and the edges of the upper and sock lining are stitched together and to the welt so that the edges beyond the stitching lie within the channel.

the channel toward its thin edge, and when the welt is turned inwardly to lie beneath the sock lining, the edges of the upper and sock lining lie within the channel and thus do not form a ridge in the interior of the shoe. The projecting convergent portion of the welt lying inward from the line of connection of the welt to the upper and sock lining provides additional stiifness and strength around the perimeter of the shoe at the sole, and this strengthening portion of the welt occupies the space formed byskiving the material from the sole. If desired, the welt may be made of the strip produced in the skivin'g operation, or it can be a separate pieceof material previously prepared.

For a better understanding of the invention, reference may be made to the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a plan view of the sole for one form of the new shoe;

Fig. 2 is a sectional view on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of one form of welt used with the new shoe;

Fig. 4 is a plan view of one may be used in the new shoe;

Fig. 5 is a transverse sectional view illustrating how the upper, upper lining, and sock lining may form of upper that be stitched'together along their edges before being the new shoe;

Fig. 11 is a longitudinal sectional view through the heel of the new shoe facture; and,

Fig. 12 is a view similar to Fig. 11 showing the completed shoe. V In the drawings, thenew shoe is illustrated as including an upper 20, which may be made of any suitable material and in any desired style. This upper is providedwith a lining 2| in the constructions shown, although such a lining may be omitted, if desired, and the upper lining is secured to the upper edge of the upper by stitching in the usual way. The shoe also includes a sock lining 22 which is of relatively soft flexiblematerial.

The welt projects a substantial distance beyond ii In making the shoe, the edges of the upper 2|.

sectional view through I at one stage in the manuare placed opposite 3 1 upper lining 2|, and sock lining 22 are placed in "registry, as shown in Fig. 5, with all the edges pointing in the same direction. The three edges are then secured together by a line of stitching 23. After the assembly of the upper, upper lining,

.and sock lining, the connected edges are secured to a welt 24. This welt is of elongated triangular cross section and it is preferably provided with a longitudinal channel 25 in one convergent side a 4 the latter is placed against the insole and shank with sloping surface in contact with the lower convergent side of the welt. The sole is then seof the-upper, uppe lining, and sock lining-then" I lie within the channel as illustrated in Fig. 6.

The assembly made up of the upper, uppe lin ing, sock lining, and welt may now be slipped-over applied tothe exposed face of the sock lining. A shank" is'thenplaced against the exposed face .of the insole to extend from the heel seat for-.

wardly throughout the arch portion of the shoe, The shank is made of any suitable material, such as leather or a fibrous composition, and it may be provided with a metal stiffener of the usual type,

if desired. Preferably before the application of the insole and shank, they are skived ofi along their edges to form upwardly sloping surfaces on their undersides. After the insole and shank have been placed in position, the welt is turned inwardly so as to underlie the edges of the insole and shank and hold those parts inplace.

when the shoe includes a counter, such as that indicated at 3|, the lower edge 2la of the upper lining 2 I is not connected to the lower edge of the a last, after which an insole 29, if one is used is i cured in place by any suitable means, as, for example, the lower side of. the welt may becemented to the sloping surface 36 of the sole, as shown in Fig. 9, or, incase the shoe is of the type having a proiecting'sole, as shown in Fig. '1, the exposed thickedge 28 of the welt may be secured to the sole by a line of stitching 31. i I

In shoes in which the welt is to extend entirely around the heel. as in the construction shown in Figs, 11 and 12, the edges .of the upper 20 and the sock lining 22. are secured to the welt in the manner previously described throughout the length of those edges. In som shoes, the welt may terminate'at the breast face of the heel or at the ball and instep, in which event, the free portion of the lower edge of the upper is provided with an xtended flange and is secured to the under surface of the shank, which is attached to the under surface of the sock lining, by ordinary hand or machine lasting operations. Also, in some shoes, such as that shown in Fig: 10, the upper may not be continuous but consists of straps, 3! forward of the instep and a strap 40 Just forward of the heel. In such a shoe, the edges of the straps and of the strap linings, if used, are connected to the sock lining and'to the welt, whileat the toe and lining. When the assembly is then slipped over the last, the counter is forced snugly against the inner surface of the upper, the upper lining is similarly applied snugly against the innersurface of the counter, and the edges 2: of the upper lining and am of the counter-are caused to lie flat against the surface of the sock lining. The cemented edge of theupper lining then adheres to the surface of the sock lining so that the counter is properly held in place. After the heel 32 has been nailed in place, a pad 33 is placed within the shoe to overlie the cemented edge 2 I a of the upper lining.

If the shoe is to have a box in the toe. the lower edge of the upper lining is left free at the toe, and the box in moist soft condition is inserted between the upper and upper lining befor the upper is secured to sock lining and welt. Upon lasting, the toe box is properly shaped and hardened.

After the' assembled parts described have been slipped on the last, the insole and shank placed in position, and the welt turned in under the insole and shank, an outer sole 34 is applied. This sole is prepared for application to the shoe by being skived on one face along itsedge to remove a strip of material 35 of triangular cross-sectional shape generally the same as that of the felt. The skiving produces a downwardly and outwardly sloping surface 36 around the edge of the outer sole, and

'row portion of the welt is heel and in the spaces between the straps, only the sock lining is connected to the welt.

In shoes, such as that shown in Fig. 9, in which a' projecting sole is not employed, the welt is of appropriate width between its thick and thin edges, and the edges of the upper, upp r lining,

and sock lining are secured to the-welt relatively close to the thick edge thereof. When the welt is then turned under the sock lining, only a wit- 7 posed. While I prefer in all constructions to connect the edges of the upper, upper lining, and sock lining to the welt throughout the portion of the shoe forward of the breast face of the heel, it is to be understood that this construction need not be employed throughout the portion of the shoe mentioned, and that conventional shoe making methods may be used to a greater or lesser extent.

To obtain the full benefits of the invention, an

desirable to connect the edges of the upper, upper lining, and sock lining to the welt in the manner described, wherever that is permissible.

In the new shoe, the turning in of the welt beneath the sock lining along the perimeter of the latter gives added strength to the'shoe along the line of connection. of the upper to the sole. By making the welt of elongated triangular form and skiving the upper surface of the outer sole, the employment of the relatively wide welt does not interfere with formingthe shoe with flat inner and outer surfaces. Also, by channeling the 'w'elt, space is, provided to receive the reversely folded portions of the upper, upper lining, and sock lining, and, the formation of a ridge on the inner surface of the shoe is thus prevented.

While the welt may be preliminarily formed of suitable stock, it is possible to use the strip of material 3'5 removed from the sole in the skiving operation as .the welt. The use of the strip as the welt reduces the cost, and at the same time, insures that the welt and the outer'sole will fit smoothly together.

What is claimed is:

1. A shoe which comprises an upper. a sock lining, a well. of generally triangular cross-section lying with its thin edge extending inwardly 5 beneath the sock lining, the welt having a longitudinal channel in its upper face, the edges of the upper and sock lining being turned inwardly and lying within the channel, said, edges being secured to the welt through the bottom of the channel, an outer sole skived on its upper face along its edge to provide a sloping surface, the outer sole lying beneath the welt and sock lining with said sloping surface eng ging the lower convergent face of the welt, and means for securing the welt to the outer sole. Y

2. A shoe which comprises an upper, a sock linto provide a. sloping surface, the outer sole lying against the under surface of the shank with its 6 sloping surface in contact-with the lower face of the welt, and means for securing the welt to the outer sole.

- FRANK J. TOBACCO.

REFERENCES CITED The followingreferences are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Date Name 880,515 Gabrielian Mar. 3, 1908 2,068,946 Ferguson Jan. 26, 1937 1,643,678 Peer Sept. 27, 1927 2,345,738 Field -Apr. 4, 1944 1,514,460 Price et a1. i. Nov. 4, 1924 914,485 Gabrielian Mar. 9, 1909 2,059,386 Murphy Nov. 3,1936 1,136,819 Lenker Apr. 20, 1915 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 548,615 France Jan. 19, 1923 244,248 Great Britain Dec. 17, 1925- Great Britain Nov. 14, 1907 

